Part 2. We finished four-wheeling through the Jordanian Wadi Rum desert late, flew into Sharm-el-Sheikh Egypt and made our way to the base of Moses Mountain as they nickname it here. We bundled up since we were climbing at night and the temperature would dip mightily before dawn. Here we met our young Bedouin guide, Mahmoud. These guys scamper up this mountain nearly every night of the year and Mahmoud is our guardian angel incarnate. He’s sweet and kind and wants us to have a meaningful and safe experience. We’re warned to watch out for anarchist camels hogging the narrow trail and we smell them before actually seeing them. I’m stunned to shine a light into a crowd of more than 100 camels, groaning and vocalizing while waiting to take the less ambulatory hikers part way up the mountain. Camels are prize possessions and their owners decorate them head to hump! We heard about the hundreds of uses of camel milk and no, I didn’t try any!

Mahmoud, our Bedouin angel
Mahmoud, our Bedouin angel

 
Groups of people are singing hymns, some are chanting, others are laughing and congregating in the couple of tea shops carved into the side of the mountain on the way up. It’s literally a United Nations experience here. We step into a little tented shop, illuminated with a kerosene lantern and order Turkish coffee, thick and sweet and fragrant with cardamom. I’m transported to another world on the side of this amazing mountain! Next….The conclusion!